A journey of discovery and hope
The Team: Jim & Audrey Bezemer, Cal & Shelley Bosveld, John Croce, Rene & Anne Dam, John & Jane DeWaard, Peter & Jackie DeWaard, Steve, Corey & Jordan Fox, Chris Mantel, Henk Schilthuis, Ken Vanderlaan, Dave & Karen VanderMeulen
Day 1 (Nov. 30, 2006)
The journey began at 4:00 a.m. with our traditional prayer circle. As the group was coming from more varied locations, the circle was formed in the Tim Horton’s parking lot on 3rd Line in Oakville, rather than at the Flamborough church. Along with the departing group members, the circle included Shirley Vanderlaan, Nick and Alice Groen, Victoria Fox, Cathy Croce, Tony Verdonk and Ken Bosveld (many thanks to our super supporters who braved the rain and early hour to be with us!)
Our flight finally left Toronto at 7:10 a.m. and after a stop-over in Atlanta we arrived in Honduras at 1:40 p.m. (local time) and were greeted by Diaconia Nacional Director, Dellia Sanchez, and her 9-year-old son Jonathan; Jillian Baker, a CIDA volunteer from Strathroy; and our translator, Santos (he was well known to members of the group who had visited in April) under blue skies and temperatures of 34C! We drove to San Pedro Sula and our hotel, the Aparto Nurio. After room assignments were made and luggage was unloaded, the group met converged on the swimming pool for a refreshing dip.
At 4:30 p.m. we gathered under a canopy in the hotel garden for our orientation, which Ken opened by reading the Prayer of St. Francis of Assisi. He stressed that we were here not to teach our Honduran brothers and sisters, but to work with them and to help them through the riches with which God has blessed us. With translations by Jillian and Santos, Dellia welcomed us on behalf of the CRWRC and Diaconia Nacional. She first gave a brief overview of DN’s mission.... as the social arm of the Christian Reformed Church in Honduras, they work with impoverished communities to train leaders, provide agricultural information, provide materials for housing, administer health programs, particularly for children and assist in the set-up and running of community credit unions for which the Carpenteros provide funding. She then went on to outline the itinerary and goals for our trip. We closed by singing “Amazing Grace” – in Spanish! – and “Here I Am Lord”.
Day 2 (Dec. 2, 2006)
After breakfast we piled into the bus for the drive to the Choloma suburb of San Pedro Sula, where we met with the Juntos todo es possible (Together Everything is Possible) Credit Union. Leila, the DN representative who visits every month, introduced the credit union’s board and explained that while the DN usually establishes credit unions in communities where there is already a CRC, there is no Christian Reformed Church in is area.
This credit union was established in response to the great need here and that fact that the people are willing to work hard. To date, the credit union has been well managed and offers full accountability. President Rosie welcomed us and told that this credit union began three years ago with eight members and now has 12 shareholders. They currently have 11 individuals and four groups, which are comprised mainly of single mothers, with outstanding loans totalling 72,441 limpiras ($1US = 19 limpiras). In order to qualify for a loan, applicants must have 10% of the amount requested already saved and repayment interest is 3% per month. For those who have no savings, the Social Action Committee will analyze their needs and abilities to determine if a loan will be granted. This Committee is also responsible for visiting and assisting the very poor in the community with food and clothing. Rosie also stated that many in this area are still suffering from the effects of the 1998 Hurricane Mitch, which set back the infrastructure of the entire country some 20 years. Treasurer Candida carefully outlined the credit union’s finances, explaining they currently had 134,843 limpiras in assets which was broken down into 10% for a reserve fund; 20% for social action and mercy fund; 30% returned to seed capital and 40% for dividends and savings (they currently have 30 persons with more than 45,500 limpiras in savings accounts). Ken stated that we have been supporting this credit union for the past three years with approximately $800US per year.
Carena Cruz used her loan to establish a cosmetic and clothing store in order to save money to attend school. With assistance from her brother, who has a fruit business, she is currently in a Business Administration program and has bought her own computer. Petrona thanked us for supporting the credit union from which she borrowed money to start a grocery store. She has repaid her loan and the store is now growing on its own profits. Bernardino, another member of the credit union, also thanked us for our support and he explained that it has benefited the entire community. To show their appreciation, we were each presented with a leather key chain which was handmade by a former member of the credit union.
We then walked through the neighbourhood to see Carena’s store and stop at her mother’s shop to buy candy, which Henk passed out to the children who came to walk with us (it is amazing how sweets can draw kids from blocks away!).
We visited a family who borrowed money to purchase materials to build their home where they have established a tamale-making business as well as selling wood. We also stopped briefly to see the Evangelical Church that was built with funds from the savings of credit union members.
Just before noon we returned to our hotel to retrieve our luggage and load up for the trip to Tela. We drove about two hours through scattered rain showers to the coast where a late lunch was served at the Sherwood Hotel. After settling in, some group members relaxed on the patio, while others walked into town in search of internet/phone connections to home and ice cream (thanks Henk)! At 6:30 p.m. we met in the “upper room” of the hotel for a light supper and evening devotions, which began with the reading of Hebrews 2. Our discussions were based on Jesus as the ultimate volunteer and each member shared their personal reasons for coming on the trip. The general consensus seemed to be that because we have been so richly blessed we want to give something to help others and this trip enables us to actually see the people we are helping through the credit unions. Ken then passed a hat with names, and we each drew a prayer partner... someone in the group whom we would pray for during the trip.{mospagebreak}
Day 3 (Dec. 2, 2006)
At 7:30 a.m., under cloudy skies, we enjoyed a breakfast of bacon and eggs, fresh fruit and the ever-present refried beans. After a short bus ride to the Eco-Excursions dock, we climbed into two 30' fibreglass boats with roof canopies and large outboard motors. After barely clearing the tidal flats at the mouth of the river we headed into the choppy Caribbean for a 45-minute ride to Punta Sal. This peninsula is part of the Kawas National Park – 700-square-kilometers of unspoiled natural beauty named for Jeannette Kawas, a naturalist who campaigned not to turn the area into a Cancun-style hotel strip. Her assassination in 1995 brought the issue to international attention and the park was created in her honour.
We began our 30-minute hike through the jungle with our guide explaining how many of the plants and trees have medicinal qualities, i.e. the nonny tree has fruit with curative values for more than 100 different diseases, including boosting the immune system in AIDS patients. During our walk, he also pointed out howler monkeys, hermit crabs, various birds, tropical flora and a termite nest, which he informed us was good for food if you’re lost... he then proceeded to dig out a few morsels and eat them to prove his point (Ken also had a sampling of the little delicacies!) We made a short detour to Punta Candida, a sheltered bay where pirates, including Henry Morgan, used to hide their ships from the authorities. On the beach here, our guide pointed out a “tourist tree”.... its bark turns bright red and then peels off! Our hike ended on the northern shore of the point where our boats were awaiting us for the short trip back to the leeward side and a swim.
Lunch was served at Chocalito Beach. The two families living here are the only inhabitants in the Park and they were allowed to stay because their ancestors had lived here for generations before the Park was created. They now have a little beachfront “restaurant” for tourists, where they serve freshly-caught fish along with plantain and beans from their garden. Their children attend school for eight months of the year outside the Park (living with friends) and return the other four months to help with the work.
Despite the blue skies under which we spent our time in Kawas Park, the dark clouds lingered over Tela and the boat ride home was rather rough.... and wet!! With the ladies in one room and the gents in the other (we stayed past normal check-out time) we executed a pretty quick wardrobe change and luggage load-up and were on the road again at 2:15 p.m.
After the four-hour trip we arrived at the Hotel Olanchito and another late dinner. Despite the karoke blaring from the hotel bar, most made it an early night.
Day 4 (Dec. 3, 2006)
After a “typico” breakfast in the hotel dining room, we were joined by Regino of Alfalit (CRWRC’s partner in northern Honduras) for a short trip to the village Balsamo. The village has just over 200 homes, housing a population of about 1,400 persons, including a large number of orphans. Although education is free to all to the end of Grade 6, students’ families must still pay for uniforms and supplies, and because of the poverty in the village (average wage is $1US per day) and the large number of orphans, most children can not afford to attend school. Philomena, a local teacher, has established a free school for adults as well as children in her living room, where students will be able to work toward receiving a Grade 6 equivalency education.
Due to the school’s popularity (currently 30 students) the living room has become too small. With funding from our Valentine’s Dinner, materials were purchased to construct a “school house” in the teacher’s front yard. On our arrival the six main poles had been sunk into the ground, and under the supervision of an Alfalit contractor, our “roofing crew” proceeded to place the roof trusses and then the corrugated aluminum sheets. Several groups of men were recruited to split bamboo, which would form the walls of the building and the ladies went on a walking tour of the village before coming back to assist with putting up the bamboo. The ladies of the village prepared a lunch of chicken, rice, vegetables and beans, which was served to us in Philomena’s house. By 3:00 p.m., the building was three-quarters complete, with only the front wall needing to be placed. We then held a short meeting – in the new “school” – during which the community leaders thanked us for our help and expressed their hopes for the school’s continuation. On behalf of the Carpenteros, Ken explained that, through Alfalit, we would continue to support this school as well as several others like it in the area, and then presented them with a box of supplies, including paper, pencils, pens, etc.
Unfortunately, we had to leave the locals to complete the school, as we were expected at the Sin Frontieres (Without Borders) Credit Union in Olanchito. This credit union was only established a little more than one year ago with thirteen members. President Nacira thanked us for coming and also expressed their gratitude to Dellia and the DN for their support and assistance. While they did not present a detailed financial report, each member did come forward to thank us and tell what their loans had been used for. For the most part, loans were taken out (at 2% per month interest) to establish businesses, including a tortilla making business, a bedspread sewing business and a hammock making business which employs other people from the community. When asked what difference the credit union has made in the community, Magda, the credit union secretary, explained that the new businesses established with loans are allowing the members to start savings accounts as well as providing employment opportunities for others. She also explained that there were no loans in default, and most times an extension of repayment time was all that was needed to assist those having trouble paying their loans.
Placido, the master hammock maker, explained that a hammock requires about 20 pounds of material and can be made in one day by four people at a cost of approximately 200 limpiras. They make eight to ten hammocks per week and sell them at tourist stores for 300 limpiras each. Maura, our hostess, explained that the bedspreads and pillow shams that her group makes are sold locally as well as some that are taken to a La Ceiba shop. The ladies then proudly brought out some of the spreads to show us their handiwork.
We then drove to a nearby church, Evangelica a Nazaret, which had postponed their 4 p.m. service to 6:00 p.m. so that we could join in worship with them. As part of the service, Ken brought greetings from the CRC in North America and the Coro Carpenteros performed two songs in Spanish (the people are fortunately polite enough not to laugh at our pronunciation!)
It was then back to the hotel and a short walk to the local comida (family restaurant) for supper.
Day 5 (Dec. 4, 2006)
This morning, under rainy skies, we left Olanchito at 6:15 a.m. Due to concerns about safety on the roads, it was decided by the bus company that we had to take the long way – via La Cieba, San Pedro Sula and Comayagua – to Tegucigalpa... a 395 km trip! Our first stop was the Masapan Buffet Restaurant in La Cieba for breakfast... everyone got to pick what they wanted so no complaints here! By 2:00 p.m. we arrived in Siguatepeque where we ate a buffet lunch at Granja d’Elia. Here we could also exchange some currency and wander about the small aviary, with its toucans, macaws and parrots.
Despite a few numb rear ends, it was a good trip under mostly cloudy and rainy skies. So far it has only rained while we have been traveling and we have had clear skies for working, walking and meetings. There were a few anxious moments on the trip as our driver would pass a slow-moving vehicle only to be passed himself by another car....three-wide, up hill and around a corner (our prayers for traveling mercies were certainly answered!)
After some 12 hours of travel (the last 40 minutes up a mountain) we arrived at the Villa Gracia in Tegucigalpa. This Christian retreat centre is operated by the Evangelical Church and offers conference facilities and dormitory-style sleeping accommodations. After dinner, our devotional readings were from Romans 12 and I Corinthians 12 and discussions centred on the fact that we are all part of one body in Christ, despite our country, culture or background.{mospagebreak}
Day 6 (Dec. 5, 2006)
We awoke to thick fog and no hydro, so we were very glad the dining room stoves operated on gas and we could still have our pancakes. Unfortunately, we received a disturbing phone call this morning that our visit to ASJ had been cancelled as one of their lawyers was assassinated the previous day. Also, Karen, Shelley and Jordan are under the weather this morning and plan to spend the day in their rooms, with David as their nurse maid. The rest of us traveled into the city to the CRWRC offices to meet with Ana and Irene. Also visiting the CRWRC office was Leanne Giestefer, the Director of CRWRC for Latin America.
Ana explained to us that Dionisio Diaz Garcia, the ASJ (Association for a More Just Society) lawyer, had been working on a human rights case for employees of a large security company. He was on his way to the Supreme Court to present their petition for fairer wages when he stopped at a red light and was shot several times by a man on a motorcycle. He was the third human rights worker to be killed in ten days and other members of ASJ had also received death threats, so their offices were closed. Ana then went on to explain some of the details on their partners in Honduras:
CRWRC has partnered with Alfalit for some 20 years, and while they began as a literacy program, they expanded into other areas after Hurricane Mitch. The Carpenteros are currently supporting 14 of their credit unions.
Diaconia Nacional is the social arm of the CRC in Honduras and offers leadership and training in areas of health, agriculture, drinkable water and cajas communitarios (credit unions)
SCM (Stewardship of Christian Ministries) focuses on the holistic development of the family and community through clinics, school and daycare. The Carpenteros, through CRWRC, help to fund their credit union.
ASJ (Association for a More Just Society) offers assistance through legal advice and clinics for physical and psychological health care. Many of their clients are abused and abandoned women and their children.
Along with Ana and Dellia, we now traveled to the Nueva Suyapa neighbourhood of Tegucigalpa. This community of approximately 35,000 people has an average household income of 1,250 limpiras ($65US) per month to support a family of five to six dependants. This amount does not cover all the basic needs, such as medical care, and many homes have no water or hydro. The area is divided into eight communities and experiences extreme gang violence with only token police protection. Most people do not venture from their homes after dark, and even the churches do not hold evening services, but during the day it is safe to travel about, especially in a large group such as ours. Our bus driver dropped us off for lunch at Valentin Pizzeria. The profits from the sales at this shop go toward supporting Honduran missionaries in India.
After lunch, we walked up the block to the “Genesis” compound, where we met Melaney, our host for the afternoon. Operated by the SCM, the social arm of the Brethren Church in Honduras, this compound houses the Escuela Evangelica El Verbo grade school, dental and medical clinics, office and meeting rooms for the banking program members and housing for staff (the high school is located next to the church several blocks away). The first Kindergarten class was established 12 years ago for “at risk” children and the Saturday before we arrived they had their first graduating class of 38 children, including eight from the original first class. Many of the 26 girls and 12 boys expressed a desire to continue their education and become teachers and health care workers in their community. There are currently 680 students at the school, with most attending on a scholarship although there is a token payment required from the parents. The clinics are open to everyone in the community and fees are charged on a sliding scale according to ability to pay.
The banking program (credit union) was first established some 10 years ago and now involves approximately 720 women. Loans are given to women only as they are the mainstay of most families and solely responsible for child-rearing. Unfortunately, many men who can’t find work to support their families feel they have failed and turn to alcohol, spousal abuse (reported in almost 60% of homes) and often abandon their families, leaving the women to step in. Therefore, part of the weekly meetings for the credit union members includes talks on health, sanitation and empowerment.
As with our other credit unions, loans are usually between one and two thousand limpiras ($50 - $100US) and are generally used to establish small businesses. Loans are usually given to groups that encourage members to repay their portion of the loans and also offer support to their members. Interest on the loans is charged at 3% per month, compared to the 20% or more that banks charge on such high risk loans. Credit union members are also taught the basics of bookkeeping and business practices and as members establish a credit rating, they can move up to borrowing larger amounts to expand their businesses. The program is currently still relying on donations for their seed capital, but they hope that in the near future they will become self-sustaining... with interest generating enough income to provide further loans.
Before touring parts of the community, we thanked Melaney for all her information and presented her with a medical supply kit for the clinic. We also indicated that we would continue to support their credit union until they have reached self-sufficiency.
Our first stop was a daycare centre operated by Ana and Gloria, under the supervision of Sandra who also oversees three other centres in the community. This centre was established three years ago and currently has 22 children who sing songs, paint pictures, play games and hear Bible stories. Their families pay five limpiras per day that also covers the cost of a lunch. The centre offers the children protection and care for their physical, emotional and spiritual needs and the staff say they have seen improvement in the children’s behaviour and self-esteem. The children then sang some songs for us – including Jesus Loves Me in English – and had us join in some of their games. We then returned to the Genesis compound where we met the dentist and other staff members.
After a brief visit to the Diaconia offices to retrieve tools and drop off school supplies, we headed back up the mountain. Along the route, we stopped at the Iglesia Cristiana Reformada in La Paz – the CRC where Gregorio Sanchez is the lay pastor. Although Gregorio was on tour with another mission group, his wife, Dellia, was kind enough to give us a bit of background on their congregation. The church was established 15 years ago by a Mexican missionary. About six years ago, the congregation outgrew their first building and purchased the current site that was then the neighbourhood dump. Gregorio and Dellia first came to this church in 2003 (after 20 years at another CRC in Tegucigalpa). In 2004 there was some difficulty within the church and the pastor left, taking a good number of congregants with him, and the building was vandalized. The fifteen remaining members then asked Gregorio to become their pastor and they set about cleaning up the building. The congregation has now grown to 50 members and Gregorio and Dellia will be moving to a new home after living in the Sunday school building for the past three years. (The Diaconia Nacional is also moving to a new building before year’s end.... so a lot of change for Dellia!)
Upon our return to the Villa Gracia we found Theresa Schilthuis waiting for us. She is cousin of Henk and a good friend to Anne and Rene’s daughter, who works in a nearby bilingual Christian school (attended by many children of the diplomatic corps who live in the area). She had heard of our visit and since she lives in the neighbourhood, she thought she’d drop by. Along with Ana and Dellia, Theresa joined us at a downtown restaurant where we feasted on chicken fajitas, Honduran-style (Steve has also come down with some kind of bug).{mospagebreak}
Day 7 (Dec. 6, 2006)
We had an early wake-up call this morning, in order to have breakfast (at least those of us who could) and load up the bus again. We met with Ana on the outskirts of Tegucigalpa and some 3-1/2 hours later pulled up at the dock in Coyolita on the Golfo de Fonseca. After bidding good-bye to Humberto, our faithful bus driver, we then transferred all our luggage and the group into two pungas (30' fibreglass boats) for the short crossing to Isla de Tigre. At the Amapala dock we loaded our gear and bodies into three pick-up trucks for the 5-minute drive to the Mirador de Amapala Hotel. We were duly impressed by the small pool in the open-air courtyard, however, the groaning began when we realized it was somewhere between 74 and 89 steps up to our rooms (depending on where your room was located)!
After lunch, Ken divided us into three groups – roofers, latrine workers and painters. The painters traveled about 15 minutes to the CRC in the village of Izlitas. There, under the supervision of Leandro, we began by sanding wood for tables and then sanding the block walls of the Sunday school. This done, we applied the first coat of paint.....sky blue for the tables and yellowy-beige for the walls. (As this was my team, I should mention that painting the walls was a bit of a challenge!)
The latrine and roofing crews went to the fishing village of Tiguilotada (those who had been to both locations, said it reminded them of Pushtan, El Salvador). The village’s community centre had lost its roof some years ago and the community could not afford to replace it. Two former villagers (now living on the mainland) had already placed the main roof support, so the team began installing the trusses and cross pieces. Because the building had stood open to the elements for so long, there was a pile of garbage and rocks in it. The roofers recruited several local youths, supplied them with work gloves, and had them remove the rubble from the interior as well as an old firepit that was located right in front of the door.
The Carpenteros are placing ten latrines in this village this year as part of the DN’s health program. The villagers who are receiving these latrines were responsible for helping to dig the holes in their yards and a mason was hired to install the block. Unfortunately, this was slow work and our team could only back fill one unit and then wait for further instructions. We need to rethink how we will assist with this part of the project.
At 4:30 p.m. we gathered – in work clothes – with members of the congregation for a welcome service. Leandro and other elders expressed words of thanks to us for our coming and our assistance, and Ken brought greetings on our behalf and also from the CRC in NA. He added how glad we were to be able to be among them and that we hoped we would be a mutual blessing to each other. Pastor Francisco brought a brief message, which Santos very ably translated for us, and then it was back to the hotel to get cleaned up and eat dinner.
We have already established the Carpenteros’ balcony on the top floor of the hotel – here we sit before and after work to talk amongst ourselves, take pictures of the awesome scenery, conduct our evening devotions and practice our songs. This evening our devotional time was based on Deut. 15:1-11 and we talked about forgiving debts and helping the poor, not just because we have to but because we can and because God then gives us so much more. Our discussions also covered the fact that we have come to Amapala because the need is so great, but few volunteers are willing to come here because of the logistics of working on an island and because the heat makes working very difficult. The discussion was followed by letters from home, which always come in that handy-dandy FedEx package and always evoke a tear or two as well as a smile!!
Day 8 (Dec. 7, 2006)
As the temperatures are forecast to be in the low 90s today, we got off to an early start this morning. All the work teams made a brief stop in Tiguilotada to see the current home of Magdalena. She is a widow with five children who is living with her mother- and father-in-law as well as five other relatives in a small stick and mud house. As she has no income or job, she was forced to move into this home when her husband was killed by security guards in the city. After discussion and evaluation by CRWRC and the Diaconia, the Carpenteros will be building her a new home, beside her sisters and mother, in Playa Negra, a village some miles away. A condition of her getting this home is that she must sign a contract that she will not sell the home before her youngest child is 21-years-old.
Today the painting crew consists of Anne, Karen, Jackie and Audrey because we only have four good paint brushes. We applied the second coat of paint to the tables and finished putting the first coat on the walls. Due to the fact that we ran out of paint, we enjoyed a lengthy break in the shade of the trees as well as a quick lunch with the roofers. Three more gallons of paint arrived and by 3:30 p.m. the job was finished.
The roofing crew finished the trusses and most of the cross pieces. However, the first order of business for today was to build a swing for the children. Henk found some suitable rope, Jim located pieces of wood for the seats, Juan supplied a sturdy tree branch for the cross bar and then John and Jim put all the pieces together. While the children had never had a swing before, it didn’t take them very long to figure out how it worked, including going side to side and twirling around. Shelley and Jane also entertained the youngsters with games, drawing and nail polishing. As the clay tiles from the previous roof had been saved, laying them on the cross pieces was the next step. When any of the other crew members placed tiles, the contractor would come along and do them over, however, when John laid tile, the contractor simply checked them and nodded. The whole crew agreed that John seems to be a natural at this and might want to consider it as a new career option!
It was decided to put assisting with latrines on hold for today, so the rest of the team went to Playa Negra to work on Magdalena’s new home. The one-acre lot is already the site of three other family homes (housing some 30 people) We have hired contractors and supplied materials, so there was already a good start on the walls and the team continued laying block from there. Due to the large rocks and unevenness of the ground surrounding the house, sand and gravel must be moved from the road to the house (approx. 100 yards) in 5-gallon pails rather than a wheelbarrow. The slope also means that the back room of the house needs about three feet of fill (read: rocks) to bring the floor level with the front room. Rocks have to be collected from the nearby forest and thrown through the window into the room, however some of the local children also helped out with this task... and were, of course, paid off in candy!
This evening we have invited Gloribel, the DN health care worker, as well as the health leaders from the three villages where we are working to join us and outline what their health program entails. The Diaconia’s goal is to improve the general health of the villagers, particularly the children and they are working with village leaders to bring about the changes necessary to reach this goal. They currently have in place a monitoring program for children ages six months to six years in which they are weighed and measured monthly to track their development and every six months they are given medicine to kill parasites. Through training sessions, the Diaconia and the village leaders are trying to improve the peoples’ diets, particularly expectant and nursing mothers and young children; they are also working to improve sanitation in the village through the use of latrines, cleaning up garbage and penning livestock. AIDS is one of the greatest concerns, as people very rarely go to be tested when they suspect they may be infected because they really don’t want to know if they have the disease. Although only one death from AIDS has been recorded on the island, the village health leaders feel it is far more widespread than officials believe. The DN health program also offers birth control instruction, as girls as young as 14 years are becoming mothers (there is not always a father around to assist). The ladies told us that the Honduran Roman Catholic Church has sanctioned the use of contraceptives and that the Honduran government actively promotes birth control.
One of the main problems on the island is the 60% unemployment. There is a lot of manpower available to effect repairs and such in the villages, but no money to purchase materials or pay wages, nor are there enough skilled people to instruct others. There is no industry nor other employer on the island, so fishing continues to be the main source of income and it is very little. The village leaders are hoping that agricultural production can be increased and varied to include crops for export to the mainland, but again, money is needed to get started. They also feel that if families had the means, their children would continue their education in hopes of breaking the cycle of poverty. The ladies then thanked us again for our visit and assistance thus far.{mospagebreak}
Day 9 (Dec. 8, 2006)
Again, the forecast is HOT, HOT, HOT, so we’re off to a really early start, with breakfast at 6:00 a.m. this morning. The roofing crew went back to Tiguilotada to complete the roof and make window shutters and doors. Henk and Cal have also gone there to work with the masons on the latrines. The rest of the team drove to Playa Negra to work on the house site... the last courses of block were laid; rebar was cut and bent into triangles for reinforcement of cement corners and cross beams (over door and windows); and, of course, cemento had to be mixed. The ladies at the house site spent most of the day playing and interacting with the village’s children... skipping rope, playing hop scotch, drawing pictures for them, taking their pictures and showing them the digital images, braiding their hair, applying nail polish (this also included some of the mothers) and just hugging and talking (at least trying to). Despite their poverty, lack of proper clothing and infestations of head lice, these children have the most amazing smiles, bright eyes and a genuineness.
We left our work sites at about 2:30 p.m. and after a quick clean up, 12 team members headed out “deep sea fishing”, while the rest remained at the hotel either to relax or make up “thank you” packages and stuff the pinata. Due to choppy seas and the lateness of the hour, the fishermen cut their trip short and returned empty-handed... although they did see a beautiful sunset.
Late in the afternoon, Gregorio, Dellia and their oldest son, Daniel, arrived at our hotel and joined us for dinner. After dinner, Gregorio led us in songs and even taught us a new song that was sung in two parts, with each side standing up as their part came along.... great exercise and not bad vocals either!
Day 10 (Dec. 9, 2006)
As this will be our last work day on the island, we were off to another early start, with breakfast being served at 6:00 a.m. The roofers went off to finish the community centre... adding the shutters and doors; and the latrine crew has gone to finish off the making of several “toilets” for the outhouses (these are concrete tubes without seats!) The balance of the team arrived at the house site to find very disappointed contractors when they realized we had not brought the electric circular saw with us. We explained, through Santos, that it had been needed at the other village and would be arriving later. Because the contractors had not made the forms for the cross beams we did not have to mix or pour cement, so a human “conveyor belt” was formed into the forest to collect rocks. We alternated local children (as young as 5-years-old) between the adults and began passing rocks from hand to hand and into the new house. Every 15 to 20 minutes the cry would be heard, “Agua!” and the team plus junior helpers would move into the shade and take a water and/or candy break. Mid-way through the morning, Noel’s (DN rep) pick-up truck arrived with the saw and Gregorio and Dellia who were inspecting our work on behalf of the Diaconia... they also participated in the next bucket brigade session of rocking passing. (On a personal note, I have to say that the children who helped pass rocks were absolutely incredible. There were times when I saw the size of the rock coming down the line and thought, “I’ll let the men take that one”. But then the barefooted, 9-year-old girl next to me grabbed it and I took my inspiration – and the rock – from her!)
At 11:30 a.m., Noel came back to drive all the house workers to Marina’s home near the CRC in Izlitas. Marina is the local health leader who provided some of our meals and she lives on a hill overlooking the sea.... gorgeous view!! Marina and her niece served us a delicious fish lunch and we then returned to the hotel to say our good-byes to Gregorio and Dellia.
By noon, the roof, doors and windows on the community centre were finished and it is now ready to be put into use. The DN and health leaders will set up their infant monitoring program here and there will also be other childrens’ programs.
The crew and hired mason have completed five latrines and formed the “toilets” for them. The contractors will carry on with making the floor, setting the toilet and building the walls for these latrines as well as the other five that have not yet been started. Just as the last two days, the roofers and “banos boys” ate their lunch at Juanita’s (Tiguilotada health leader) and spent siesta time in her hammocks before returning to the hotel.
At 4:00 p.m. the crews returned to Tiguilotada for our farewell event. The children got us to play some games – and Shelley taught them the Hokey-Pokey – while we waited for everyone to arrive and then Ken presented Gloribel and Juanita with a Canadian calendar and framed Carpenteros photo that will be hung in the community centre. The house crew also got to see the handiwork of the other two crews and were thoroughly fascinated by the doors on the community centre. These doors are 1" thick, solid wood, but when the sun shines on them, the resin glows bright red and they appear almost like stained-glass stripes. An awesome sight!!
After the official part of the gathering, a Clifford the Big Red Dog pinata was suspended in a tree behind the centre where several clumsy Carpenteros and some very determined children finally smacked it open. The candy rained down and the kids (and some moms) dove into it, actually knocking Ken over in the mad scramble. We then watched the children on the swings, took lots of pictures and listened to John as he led a group of kids in a rendition of “Stand By Me”.
Back at the hotel, dinner was followed by devotions on the Carpenteros balcony. In “Outhouse Etiquette”, based on Phillippines 2 and Romans 12, we discussed how we need to conform to the culture of a host country and not be too hasty to judge what we perceive their needs to be.
Day 11 (Dec. 10, 2006)
This morning CRWRC Director Irene and her daughter, Christy, joined our group as we breakfasted on omelets, fresh OJ, great coffee and real toast! Then 23 of us – plus drivers – piled into our mini-bus and Noel’s pick-up truck for the short ride to the church in Izlitas. The worship service began with the usual opening remarks and singing, then all the Sunday school children sang three songs for us and thanked us for the tables and painting.
On behalf of all the Carpenteros, Ken presented thank you gifts (Canadian calendar and Carpenteros photo) to our lunch hostesses, Juanita and Marina; to Irene for CRWRC; to our driver Noel; and to our translators, Santos and Jillian. Ken then gave a bag of school supplies (paper, pencils, crayons, etc.) to the Sunday school teacher as well as a calendar and photo that will be hung in the Sunday school room. We also presented a photo of the Carpenteros to Magdalena, so that it can hang in her new home when it is completed. With tears welling in her eyes, she expressed her gratitude for all our work on her behalf. We also presented medical kits ($300 value) to each of the three local health leaders. Gloribel, on behalf of the DN and the villagers, thanked us for these supplies and indicated that they would be put to very good use.
Pastor Francisco then delivered the sermon, based on Psalm 23, which was translated by Santos. Ken also brought a brief message on “Who Is God?”, which was translated by Ana. As many of the adults and children from Tiguilotada and Playa Negra were at the service, there were lots of pictures taken and good-byes said. We then drove on to Playa Negra so that those who had not yet seen it could view the home we are building for Magdalena. Again there were lots of pictures taken and good-byes said before we walked up the hill for the last time and got back into the bus for the ride to the hotel.
By 1:00 p.m. we had transferred our luggage and ourselves to the pier in Amapala; then onto the pungas for the crossing; and then onto the bus awaiting us at the dock in Coyolito. Several hours later we dropped Jillian and Gloribel at the bus stop for their return trip to Choluteca and we proceeded to the Oasis Colonial Hotel in Jicaro Galan. Santos then left us to return to Tegucigalpa, while Ana, Irene and Christy will stay on with us until tomorrow. The hotel had a great pool, so most of the team members went for a little dip and then relaxed in the sunshine.
At 5:30 p.m. we all met on the hotel patio for a debriefing session with the CRWRC reps. Ken read an article entitled “Cost of Short Term Missions” which questioned whether short term mission trips were actually for the benefit of the host countries or for the people traveling to them. It suggested that perhaps a better use of the expense money would be to just send it to the needy countries and let them use it as they see fit, because some of the short term mission trips are merely “religious tourism” and have very little effect. We expressed our hope that the Carpenteros’ trips were different through our long-term commitments, in-depth orientation meetings and interaction with local peoples, and Irene stated that they felt that we were indeed having a positive effect. Ana then asked the group whether there was anything that CRWRC or its partners could have done differently for us. There were several suggestions including that we would like to have more history and/or data on the villages we visit or work at and we asked whether we could get follow-up reports on the progress made at sites after our departure. Irene indicated that the Diaconia Nacional did the follow-up work and she would see about getting actual progress reports to us in Canada (through Ken by e-mail). While discussing the performance of the translators (ours did an excellent job!), it was noted that we need at least two translators for each group and if students were going to be used, they should be well screened and trained prior to our arrival. Ana told us that she had spoken to DN reps and local leaders and all agreed that we had been dedicated to our mission and were willing to give of ourselves. The only negative comment had been that the group was too large which caused some logistical problems. Ana then presented each of us with a key chain as a token of CRWRC’s thanks and dinner was served.{mospagebreak}
Day 12 (Dec. 11, 2006)
After a huge breakfast, we said our good-byes to Ana, Irene and Christy (we thanked God that Jane’s headache has finally dissipated and she is her smiling self again) and boarded the double-decker bus for the ride to San Salvador. An hour and a half later we were at the El Salvadoran border, where we waited in our seats while officials came on board to check our passports (this was a very pleasant surprise as Ken had told us that the last time they crossed the border they had to get off the bus and walk across the bridge with their own luggage plus pay a $10 fee!) The bus was then moved to an inspection area where many of the suitcases were opened and inspected. Ken explained to the Customs people that the medicines were for an orphanage and the books (six duffle bags for Ken Vander Wal) were being taken home for a missionary also traveling to Canada. This seemed to satisfy them and we were allowed to go on our way... whole process took just over an hour.
At 1:30 p.m. we arrived at the bus terminal in San Salvador, where Alba was waiting for us with a 20-passenger bus. CRWRC has decided to phase out of El Salvador, wrapping up its work there in June, 2007. Alba is a native El Salvadoran and is the CRWRC representative in San Salvador. She plans to stay on after next year, working with CRWRC partner agencies to continue fighting poverty.
We drove directly to Soya Pango to the offices of Amfume (Association of Women for a Better Future) where the ladies had lunch waiting for us. This grassroots women’s association was founded in 1994 by the Lutheran Church and CRWRC with the goal of providing self-employment for women; training leadership to empower women; improving health conditions, particularly for children, and providing clinics and medicines. The Carpenteros supported this group with $8,000 – $1,000 to each of five credit unions for seed capital and $3,000 to the clinic where the money was used to purchase beds, fans, supplies and utensils for the preparation of natural medicines.
The meeting began with each member of the group introducing themselves and then Ken thanked them for our lunch and for their work. The Board President, Rosario welcomed us and thanked us for our support that greatly aids them in their mission to serve the poor families of the community. She outlined briefly how the Association began in the same barrio where they are currently located and that it was comprised of poor women who hoped to improve their lives. While the Association is still composed mainly of women, there are a few men involved and they are also reaching out to youths in an effort to raise their values and chances of improvement.
After the destructive earthquakes of 2001, the Association established the credit unions to help members rebuild their lives. They currently have 15 credit unions operating with more than 300 members, and some of the businesses established with loans from the credit unions include stores, small restaurants, market vendors, sewing shops and a factory that makes plantain and yucca chips. Milagro Ana Tobar (the lady with the sewing machine on the back of the Carpenteros brochure) received a loan some years ago to start a small dressmaking business, since then she has taken out other loans which have allowed her to also start a bakery as well as selling household products and chickens. The business training she received through the credit union has helped her to manage her money and learn which products to sell in order to realize the most profit. She is also the Vice President of the Board of Directors of Amfume.
Rosario thanked us for our support of the credit unions and also thanked Alba for her leadership. She told us that they currently have $69,000US (US dollars adopted as official currently of El Salvador in 2003) in outstanding loans, with repayment interest of 3% per month. Bank loans are available at 16% per annum, but are only given if borrower has sufficient collateral, therefore the poor come to the community credit unions. Here, part of their repayment also goes to a savings account so that after four months (average loan repayment period), when the loan is repaid, the borrower also now has 10% of the loan amount in a savings account and she is paid 1% interest per month on this balance. Most of the credit unions are holding their own, but they still require seed capital for new loans as most members do not purchase shares (reinvested in new loans) but start their own saving accounts to become self-sufficient. The Board also realizes that with CRWRC’s departure in 2007, they must continue to manage the credit union funds with accountability to donors as well as the government agency that granted their legal status and continues to oversee them.
Teresa, the health program supervisor, explained that the “Life & Nature” Clinic in Soya Pango as well as the smaller household clinics associated with the credit unions in other areas are a large part of Amfume’s ministry to the poor. The clinics are open to anyone, even those who can only afford a symbolic payment for their treatments, and they advocate holistic treatment through the use of herbs, massage therapy, acupuncture and acupressure. Twenty-one credit union members have been trained in the preparation and administration of the natural medicines, which are much cheaper than synthetic drugs but just as effective. The health program also provides information sessions on nutrition and sanitation issues. Teresa then invited us to tour the clinic and Henk volunteered for a reflexology treatment... he suggested we might want to just leave him there until tomorrow!
We then took a walking tour of the neighbourhood and visited several credit union recipients. One lady buys fruit and vegetables from the farm and then sells them door-to-door in the city; another family makes tamales (chicken and vegetables in corn meal and steamed in banana leaf wrapping... quite tasty!) to sell at the market. On the other side of town, we visited the “chip” factory – here the credit union associate and her family members prepare and package plantain and yucca chips for sale at the market and on the street.
We then drove back to San Salvador and checked into the International Guest House. We had only a few minutes to freshen up and/or send a quick e-mail home, and it was back on the bus for the short ride to the offices of ANADES (New Sunrise for El Salvador Association). First the Association members served us a dinner of salad, lasagna and garlic bread and then we adjourned upstairs for the presentation by Executive Director Ana Miriam (with some technical support from John and Cal).The Association was begun in 1986 by Ecclesiastical communities to promote and advance the holistic healing of families based on Christian values. In El Salvador, many of the men have been lost to war, prison or for unknown reasons, leaving the women to raise and support their families. ANADES is working throughout the country with the poor as well as refugees from war and natural disasters in the areas of Education, Community Development, Health and the Sustainability Program.
They currently operate five childrens’ centres where more than 350 children receive their education (daycare for youngsters), medical treatments and meals and their parents also receive training in the areas of nutrition, family dignity and leadership. The tuition at these centres is approximately $0.50 per child per month, with those who have more income also paying more tuition (up to $15/child/month). For those who cannot afford the cost, they can contribute by working as a volunteer at the centre, helping with the children, preparing meals or housekeeping duties.
Community Development programs provide training for community leaders and assist with the creation and administration of credit unions. The Carpenteros have provided $3,300US seed capital for the seven credit unions under ANAS’ supervision. They have been working closely with Amfume for the past number of years to provide training for their credit union leaders and also to cooperate in other areas for a coordinated effort.
The Health Program provides travelling clinics, natural medicines, food baskets and some financial aid in extreme cases. Their AIDS programs offer support to victims (mostly women and girls), awareness training and medical care.
Due to a decrease in government funding as well as other donations, ANAS has established a Sustainability Program that seeks to find alternate sources to fund their programs. They feel that because El Salvador is considered wealthier than it actually is, many groups now send their donations elsewhere. Part of their self-funding program is the promotion of their organic coffee plantation as an eco-tourism destination as well as selling the coffee at fair market prices.
Ken thanked Ana Miriam for her informative presentation and gave her a suitcase full of medical supplies (all donated by the group members) for use in their clinics and we then helped ourselves to fresh coffee brewed with beans from ANAS’ own plantation.
In response to our questions, Alba told us that Dora Luz’s fish farm (former recipient of Carpenteros funds) is now supported by monies from a group in California. Ana Miriam stated that ANAS has a total annual budget of some $300,000 which is provided in part by the proceeds of their coffee plantation, CRWRC (15%) and other donors as well as a number of American and European groups who “partner” with specific centres. She also explained that since the adoption of the US dollar as the official currency and the implementation of CAFTA, agriculture has become almost unprofitable on a small scale; most wages have not increased in ten years, inflation is running at about 15% annually and the cost of living has increased threefold, resulting in population explosions in the cities and giant increases in the number of families living in poverty. There are “free zones” around San Salvador where the government encourages large industries to set up shop without having to pay taxes or abide by labour regulations.{mospagebreak}
Day 13 (Dec. 12, 2006)
The first order of business this morning was a call to Shirley... Ken was told that he is a Pake again – Anneliese Esperanza had been born in China that morning. After the congratulations died down, we ate breakfast (with fresh rolls!) and then boarded the bus for the trip to Pushtan – the village where the very first Carpenteros groups worked and lived. This has become a real trip down memory lane for previous visitors as our new translator is Milton – he was also with our groups in 2001 and 2003.
In the town of Nahuizalco, we were met by the head of the credit union in Pushtan, Maria Santos and her sister, Paula. Due to the condition of the road to the village (even though it has improved since 2001 and there is a bridge over the river) our bus driver didn’t want to go on it, so we had to walk the last kilometer to one of the four houses built by the first Carpenteros. It was decided to postpone the meeting to the end of our visit as not all the members were present, so we then walked to the other end of the village and then down a narrow path to another of the houses constructed by the 2001 teams. Those of us who had not been to Pushtan before now have a whole new respect for the first two teams who not only built four houses, but had to carry all the necessary materials (blocks, bags of cement, etc.) to the remote locations. We used the “pick-up taxi” (pile as many people as you can into the back of a truck) to get to the other side of the village, and then we walked a very narrow path to another home built by the original teams and then on to the school where those teams were billeted.
We then returned to the first home where all the members of the credit union had gathered to welcome us. Ken thanked them all for hosting us and we entertained them with two of our songs. Two of the ladies who live in the “Carpentero houses” thanked us for our visit and for the work done for them by the previous teams. Several other ladies explained that while there as been improvement in the village there is still much need and there is no government support. Before our departure, Ken again thanked them for their hospitality and stated we would keep them in our prayers.
We traveled just over an hour into the mountains to San Julian (920 meters above sea level), home of the Finca San Jorge coffee plantation. We were greeted by Ana Miriam and Juan (plantation manager) and escorted to the dining building, where the views were incredible and we were informed that we were their first luncheon customers.
Ana Miriam explained that one of ANAS’ goals is ecological preservation, so operating an organic farm seemed ideal and, when they purchased the farm, coffee prices were much higher than now. A Swedish organization provided 80% of the funding to purchase the 76-hectare farm, of which about 52 hectares are usable, with the rest being too rocky or designated as protected. Juan was hired to manage the plantation as well as diversify the crops, and they now also produce eggs, oranges, honey, poultry feed and balsa sap. ANAS’ is also trying to promote the finca as a tourist destination – they have several guest cabins and offer horseback riding, hiking and cave exploring as well as the opportunity to watch (or participate in) the harvesting of the various products. Local people are hired to do the work – 14 full-time and 75 seasonal workers – and any profits from the farm go to support ANAS childrens’ centres.
Balsa resin is actually more profitable than coffee beans (sold for $7 per pound), but the extraction process is quite arcane... first a piece of the bark is charred (this residue can be used in potpourri or as a bug repellent), then a rag is wrapped around the tree. Twenty-two days later the resin-soaked rag is removed, boiled and then wrung out. Most of the product is exported to Holland and Germany where it is used in medicines. Trees can be tapped for about 17 years and the farm produces 1500 to 2000 pounds of resin annually. Once the trees are past their resin producing years, the wood can be used to make furniture. ANAS is investigating the possibility of using the charred bark in making scented candles which could be sold in the markets.
Our tour continued past an organic vegetable garden where all the produce for the dining room is grown. Then on to the chicken barns... 2300 hens run loose in the barns and produce some 2000 eggs per day. The birds are fed a mixture of sorghum, corn and soy (all grown on the farm) and this poultry feed is also sold to other farmers. When the hens are 14 months old, they are slaughtered and sold for meat. Around the barns are the orange groves, which were not quite ready for picking.
The coffee beans had already been picked and some (10%) were drying on the ground. The majority of the crop is sold as green beans and processed elsewhere. The portion that is roasted and ground here is marketed as 100% organic coffee (farm is certified by a German firm) and, of course, the group wanted to buy some... Alba will bring 20 lbs from ANAS offices tomorrow.
Returning to the guest house at 5:30 p.m. it was decided that this would be pizza night... and the five large pies disappeared in short order. Our evening devotions consisted of each member relating a few of their personal impressions of the trip and what they think they will be taking home. We then revealed the names of our prayer partners and some of the concerns we had brought before God on their behalf and, of course, we ended with our usual singing.
Day 14 (Dec. 13, 2006)
We were up early this morning, so that we could have breakfast and get the luggage loaded in the bus, before the 45-minute drive to San Martin. Four of the Amfume credit unions have suspended their regular meetings so that they can gather with us today. The groups – Santa Teresa (8 members), Vida Nueva (14 members), Benedicion de Dios (17 members) and Jerusalen (11 members) each come together weekly to report their payments, have a short non-denominational Bible study and hear talks on health and business issues.
Prior to the presentation this day, our hostess Naomi has set up a display of the natural products and medicines they use in the clinic which is located in her home. While the Carpenteros purchased some of these products (i.e. shampoo, herbal equivalent of Aspirin, etc.) the credit union members turned in their bank deposit slips and had their payments recorded. Rather than bring cash to the meetings, the ladies make their loan payments directly into the credit union’s bank account and use their deposit slips as proof of payment. Their loan payment books record their principal and interest payments (3% per month), the decreasing loan balance and the increasing savings balance (10% of loan amount plus 1% per month interest). While all the savings are on deposit in the credit union’s bank account, if anyone wants to withdraw their money, their loan booklets show the balance due.
Through Alba’s translation, the credit union officials explained that they have been operating for some six years and the loans given out have been used to establish various businesses, such as egg and cheese seller, perfume shop, clothing making, etc. They also explained that there have been no defaults on loans, although they have extended repayment periods when members fall on hard times (only the member’s death can actually cancel the loan). Each of the ladies stated that these loans have definitely made a difference in their lives... they are able to provide for their families and get ahead, their children are able to further their education and the accomplishments have been a great boost to their self-esteem. Ken thanked all the members (20-25 women and 2 men) for coming out today and we wished them well in all their future endeavours.
We then drove back to San Salvador and spent an hour at the local craft market buying souvenirs. It was then a 35-km drive to the airport where we said our good-byes to Alba and Milton. Some members of the group managed to get in a bit more shopping in the duty-free area before boarding Flight DL276 to Atlanta. Unfortunately, while the flight boarded on time there appeared to be some issues with the baggage and we sat for more than an hour while it was rearranged in the cargo hold. The flight itself was smooth, the movie was interesting, the food was tasty and so we only had a two hour layover which team members used to eat some more, shop some more or sit some more. The plane that would carry us home, was late arriving in Atlanta so... it was also late leaving and it was almost 1:00 a.m. before we got to see our loved ones at Toronto’s Pearson International.
Before heading to the parking garage, the whole team and their family members gathered in a prayer circle and thanked God for the wonderful trip and our safe return as well as asking His blessings on the work we did and the friends that we made.
Hasta la vista y Dios te bendiga
Feliz Navidad – Prospero ano nuevo
